Article of the Month
July 2015
Common Snake Illnesses and Diseases
So it's been 3 months since the last article and I would like to apologise for not being able to write them as I only recently got my internet line sorted out. On topic, I have decided to do a general article on Illnesses and Diseases in snakes as the title suggests. As usual I will provided meanings for the terms where needed.
Mites, Mites Mites!!
Reptile Mites (Ophionyssus natricis) are eight-legged parasites similar to Ticks which feed on the blood of your snake. Once they have done this, females will lay their eggs and start the process over again. They can carry and transmit diseases from one reptile to another and this needs to be taken care of in the event that you are unlucky enough to spot mites on your snake.
Snake Mites 101
Snake mites have a 5 Stage life cycle. Egg, Larva, Protonymph, Deutornymph and Adult. Mites are extremely small organisms and only the Adult Stage is easily visible to the human eye. Mites can be dangerous towards snakes and you will need to disrupt their breeding process and eradicate any living ones before it leads to an infestation. A few mites might not necessarily be harmful towards your snake but an infestation will be problematic. Female Mites can lay as many as ±70 eggs and obviously the more females there are, the more eggs there will be. As you can probably tell, that is a lot of mites in one sitting and this can cause huge problems for your captive snake. The best way to kill mites is to take every precation possible to not get them in the first place.
Close up view of a Snake Mite
Notice the mite on this snake
So the question you "mite" be asking: How did my snake get mites?
There are many answers to this question. In the same way that your domesticated pet would bring in fleas or ticks, the same applies for reptiles like snakes.
1: You were in contact with another snake that had mites that was not part of your collection. e.g: Exotic Pet Store, one of your friends snakes, handling a snake at a Reptile Park.
2: New substrate (the bedding you use in your snakes tank) that you bought or picked up outside.
3: Any piece of wood or decor that you bought or picked up outside
4: Off the clothes of people you have been with who have an infested snake
5: From the food which you bought for your snake at the pet store or supplier that might possibly of had a mite problem.
6: Going to a Reptile Expo and bringing them home on your clothes
7: Bringing in a new snake to your collection which is infected with mites without being quarantined first.
These are just some of the few reasons why your snake might have mites.
It is critically important that if you spot a mite, that you start treatment for it immediately before it becomes an epidemic. There are many ways to treat a mite problem and they can all be found just by using Google. I do recommend the SAReptiles Forum though which can be accessed here. Alternatively taking your snake to a competent Vet who specialises in reptiles is another good way to go.
An important piece of advice to remember is that when treating for mites make sure you do it thoroughly and also make sure that any new snake you bring into your collection goes through the quarantine process. Take every precaution possible to stop mites from getting into your collection.
Egg Binding in Snakes
Egg Binding or also known as Dystocia. Is a common condition found in female egg-laying snakes where she is unable to pass or rather lay a egg that has formed due to it being stuck inside her body. This is a serious condition and a complete clutch that is stuck inside a female will most likely be fatal.
So what causes Egg Binding in Snakes?
There is quite a variety of causes, some of them being:
1: Illness and Malnutrition
2: Incorrect husbandary (Maintaining the correct conditions and care suitable for the animals survival), e.g: Maintaining the correct temperature gradients and humidity levels.
3: The lack of a suitable nesting site
4: A injury to the snakes Cloaca (the part of a snake that serves as the opening for urinal and reproductive tracts) or the channel through which the young pass through.
5: A malformed or large egg
6: Stress and Hormonal Imbalances
It can be easy to diagnose a snake that is egg bound or it can be difficult. It is extremely important that you do your research on the snake species that you are breeding with to ensure that you know the rough amount of time it takes for the female to start laying her eggs after her pre-lay shed. If a few weeks pass by then you can tell that she most likely will be egg bound. Also, when she does lay her eggs it should happen at a constant rate, one after the other in succession. If she lays a few and you can still see eggs inside her and they haven't passed through after a day then the chances are also "good" that she is egg bound.
A Egg bound Corn Snake
A egg being removed surgically from a egg bound female
There are a few ways to treat a female snake that is egg bound. Snake breeders will sometimes massage the egg gently out of the female. Another way of removing the egg is to use a needle and syringe and press it into the egg through the snakes skin, then collapse the egg by sucking out the yolk. This process is known as Aspiration and should not be done by inexperienced keepers. Another way is to inject hormonal injections into the snake to stimulate the labor process.
If the egg has already gone hard and is starting to rot then the Aspiration procedure will be near impossible and the most effective way to remove the egg will be through a surgical procedure.
If you are not comfortable with using the methods yourself, your safest option is to take your snake to a reptile vet and let them handle this scenario for you.
Try to make 100% sure that you are providing the best possible conditions for your snake especially during the breeding season. Try to make sure they have housing with obstacles that will encourage physical activity, that the temperature gradients and humidity levels are correct, that they are well fed, keeping them healthy and ensuring that their enclosures are well looked after, will only help to prevent egg binding instances.
Stargazing Syndrome
Stargazing refers to an unusual body position which can be seen in snakes. It is caused by a disease, virus or injury which effects the central nervous system. It is rather not a disease on it's own, but a symptom of a underlying disorder which needs to be treated if the snake is to survive.
How to tell if your snake is stargazing:
The Stargazing posture can be seen with any snake that has a underlying disease or condition which in turn effects it's central nervous system.
The common ways to see if your snake is stargazing is to watch its moving patterns closely. A stargazing snake will turn and twist it's head in awkward positions. It will also raise it's head towards the sky and stare into space for long periods of time.
Other symptoms of other underlying problems might include:
1: Tremors and seizures
2: The inability to roll off their backs into a normal position
3: Difficulty moving as well as disorientation and depression
Diagnosing the underlying cause of Stargazing on the other hand requires different tests to be performed by a vet.
A Boa suffering from Stargazing
A Corn Snake suffering from Stargazing
Causes can include:
1: Extreme temperatures
2: Traumatic Head injuries
3: Toxin Exposure
4: Infections with bacteria, parasites, viruses or other microorganisms
Treating a Stargazing snake depends on the effect of the underlying cause. Bacterial infections can be treated with a course of Antibiotics and can be resolved after time. Unfortunatley if the condition of the snake does not improve, euthanasia will be the only humane option.
Remember that Stargazing is a sign, not a disease. The cause lies underneath the problem and that is what needs to be treated.
Inclusion Body Disease
Inclusion Body Disease is a fatal Pathogen (A biological agent which causes disease or illness to its host) which causes damage to the snakes nervous system and causes symptoms such as Stargazing and a "drunken" like behaviour. Inclusion Body Disease affects the Boa and Python species.
Signs of infections may include:
1: Regurgitation of food
2: Stargazing
3: Acting with a "drunken" behaviour
4: The inability to control body movements (Striking, Constricting, inability to right themselves after being turned on their backs)
5: Dysecdysis (Abnormal Shedding)
6: Stomatis, the inflammation of the mucous membrane inside the mouth (Mouth Rot)
7: Weight Loss
The Virus which is called Intracytoplasmic eosinophilic develops pockets of inclusion bodies inside the snakes cells affecting the central nervous system, this eventually proves to be fatal. It is also extremely contagious and can be spread rapidly. It has a similar Gene (A group of DNA which create molecules called proteins) to that of the Ebola Virus found in Humans. Almost every zoo or reptile facility will place Pythons and Boas into quarantine for anywhere up to 6 months before they are deemed safe to be placed into a collection or placed in an exibit.
A Columbian Boa showing signs of IBD.
WARNING! - This might be graphic to watch for the less fainthearted
The only way to diagnose Inclusion Body Disease is through Blood tests. Unfortunately it is a terminal disease and as there is no cure, a snake diagnosed with IBD must be euthanized. Some snakes can live for months with IBD, however there will clearly be major signs of distress as the snakes organs are destroyed in the process. It would plain and simply be inhumane to allow a snake to suffer through that pain.
Stomatis
Stomatis or rather more commonly known as Mouth Rot is a inflammation of the Oral Cavity in which the snakes mucous membranes inside its mouth are affected. This can be severe if left untreated as the underlying tissue inside the mouth can also get infected.
So what causes Stomatis? To name just a few:
1: Stress
2: Poor husbandry (Improper care)
3: Incorrect Vivarium temperature gradients
4: Poor nutrition
5: Internal or external parasites
6: A bite from live Feeder food which gets infected
7: Pathogens such as bacteria, viruses and fungi
A Brown House Snake suffering from Mouth Rot
The signs of Mouth Rot vary in degree depending on the stage of infection, the snake might show signs of Anorexia as it will be in to much pain to feed or even bite. You might also notice that your snake has a rather thick gluey saliva. There might be puss discharge from the mouth as well. The snake might not be able to close its mouth fully as it will start to swell if not treated promptly.
If left untreated the swelling can progress to the head and eyes. The snakes teeth will become loose , Necrosis (The death of body tissue) will set in which may cause a blood clot to form which can cause Bacteria to get into the blood stream which in turn will be extremely detrimental towards the snake. This is a stage you would not want Mouth Rot to get to.
A extremely bad case of Mouth Rot
A snake suffering from Mouth Rot should be taken to a reptile vet as soon as possible. The snake will need to go on a course of antibiotics and any necrotic tissue wich has broken off in the mouth and plaque will need to be cleaned out. In severe cases the snake might need to have a surgical procedure done to remove completely dead tissue linings.
Mouth Rot is a symptom of another condition and the underlying problem will need to be addressed and treated as well. The snake may be anorexic and dehydrated and this will also need to be treated.
Supportive care will need to be implemented during the healing process. The enclosure will need to be set up to reduce stress. Hide boxes, heating and light will all need to be taken into account as well.
How to avoid Stomatis:
Make sure that you are providing the best possible living conditions for your snake. Make sure you are offering it the best nutrition in terms of food. Keep the enclosure clean as dirty water and faeces are a breeding ground for bacteria. Personally I try to NOT feed my snakes live mice/rats where possible as live mice/rats have teeth which can inflict major wounds upon your snake, which in turn can get infected.
Dysecdysis
Dysecdysis refers to the abnormal shedding of the dead outer layer of skin of a reptile. It can be seen as hard flaky loose pieces of skin, this can be extremely irratating for the snake and the snake will need to be assisted to remove the dead skin as it is unable to do it itself. Unfortunately it is a rather common problem seen in the reptile trade.
There are a number of causes for Dysecdysis:
1: Incorrect Husbandry (Improper care) e.g: Incorrect humidity levels for the species of snake or incorrect vivarium temperatures. High temperatures can dry out the air in the vivarium and this will not be beneficial towards the snake when it is trying to shed.
2: No decor inside the Vivarium for the snake to rub against
3: Malnutrition
4: Diseases such as Inclusion Body Disease in Pythons and Boas.
5: Internal and external parasites
6: Stress
7: Old injuries that have damaged the snakes scales
A snake suffering from Dysecdysis, notice the dead flaky skin
Diagnosing Dysecdysis is rather simple. Inspecting your snake after it has shed and noticing any dead skin on the snake is a clear giveaway that it is having shedding problems. Major problems can occur if the dead skin is not removed. The transaprent eye caps which cover the eyes are usually left behind after a snake has had a abnormal shed. Inspecting your snake after a shed is critically important as a eye cap which has not been shed can cause the snake to lose it's eye if not removed. Dead skin that remains stuck to the snake can cause the blood supply to be blocked to that part of the snakes body. This causes the loss of extremities such as the tip of the tail.
A corn snake suffering from a more severe case of Dysecdysis
Improper care is one of the leading causes of Dysecdysis in snakes which are kept in captivity. Every precaution should be made to avoid shedding problems for your snake.
Treating Dysecdysis is a rather simple procedure. Placing a snake inside a tub of look warm water for around 30 minutes normally does the trick and works quite well. The dead skin should simply slide off the snake after it has been soaked in the warm water. If it does not you can use a dry towel to run over the snakes body from head to tail which will pull the dead skin off. Another way to do it is to take a pillow case and place a damp towel inside of it thereafter placing the snake inside the pillow case and tying a knot in it. After about a hour you can check to see if the snake still has dead skin on it's body. Personally I prefer the latter using the tub with luke warm water.
Another thing you might want to keep in mind. If you assist your snake with shedding and it happens again during its next shed. Then clearly another underlying problem might be at hand. This being said that you took the chance to correct your first mistake of providing the correct heat and humidity levels as well as keeping your snake healthy.
If you did fix the Husbandry issues then you might need to take the snake to a reptile vet so that they can establish what the underlying problem might be.
Choosing to purchase a snake as a pet is a really fun first step for any person who loves reptiles. I do recommend however that you do your research on the species of snake that you are planning on acquiring. Make sure that you are well informed of the tasks you will need to take care of for your snake. Make sure that you offer them the best possible care, this means providing the correct heat and humidity levels for the species of snake as well as offering them the correct food that they would naturally eat where possible. Most small rodent eating snakes are more than happy to accept mice and rats as food as they grow older in captivity. Snakes which eat frogs, fish and eggs can be a bit more fussy with food and personally I would not recommend getting one of those as a beginner snake. There are many available care sheets on the internet that will provide you with more than enough information on the snake which you are intending to purchase.
I hope everyone reading this has learnt a little something along the way. If you would like to leave a comment or suggestion please feel free to send me a message or make a post on my Facebook page.